Lenin Peak is one of the most popular peaks among beginner climbers-athletes, and those who want to try their hand at high-altitude mountaineering. Almost always, the Snow Leopard program begins at Lenin Peak. He enjoys special love among experienced climbers and skiers. Another plus is the fact that you can reach the Base Camp under Lenin Peak by car, and in Osh there is an international airport, so you can fly directly.
The classic ascent route does not have steep rock and ice sections. And the descent from the top of the seven-thousander skiing does not leave indifferent even the most extreme athlete. But! Do not forget, the peak of Lenin is seven thousand meters high, and the apparent accessibility of the mountain hides difficulties and risks associated with height. Successful ascent requires a responsible approach to the organization of the expedition. To take part in this expedition, you need an appropriate level of physical condition, basic mountaineering skills, preliminary high-altitude experience and, of course, a desire to reach the top!
The main difficulties encountered by mountain climbers climbing Lenin Peak are: altitude, low temperatures, weather and, of course, ice cracks. Of course, such ascent best to do under the guidance of a professional guide. You can always join the ascent in a group with a guide, furthermore this option is financially the most optimal.
- Climb the most popular 7000-meter peak
- Take a part in ascension by non-technical routes suitable for those who climbs 7000 m peak for the first time
- Enjoy the variety of Pamir mountain sceneries
- Feel high-level of support (experienced guides, porters and rescue team)
- Comfortable accommodation in our base camps and buffet based meal service
- Discover Asian culture and lifestyle
Fixed schedule for the month of July, Aug 2023. We can also arrange private expedition based on your dates. You can contact us.
Bishkek-Bishkek (22 days) : USD2400/Pax
Osh-Osh (20 days) : USD2200/Pax
|Bishkek-Bishkek (22 days)||Osh-Osh (20 days)|
|01.July – 22.July||02.July – 21.0July|
|08.July – 29.July||09.July – 28.July|
|15.July – 05.Aug||16.July – 04.Aug|
|22.July- 12.Aug||23.July – 11.Aug|
|29.July – 19.Aug||30.July – 18.Aug|
|05.Aug – 26.Aug||06.Aug – 25.Aug|
Day 1. Arrival to the city of Bishkek, accommodation at a local hotel.
After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by a representative of Ak-Sai Travel, after you will be taken to a hotel. On the same day, after some rest, we invite you to visit our office in Bishkek. Here you can meet with the manager and get all necessary documents.
Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC “Achik-Tash” (3600 m).
After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative, and then on our transport you will be delivered to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you and provide all the necessary information.
Day 3. Acclimatization at the Base Camp, a walk to the waterfall.
After breakfast – acclimatization walk. Return to dinner. After lunch, rest, checking high-altitude equipment.
Day 4. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.
After breakfast, acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak. Ascent until we reach snow line, to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the tract Achik-Tash opens. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the transition to Camp 1.
Day 5. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
After breakfast, exit to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.
Day 6. Ice classes. Climbing the peak of Yukhin 5100 m.
In the morning, ice classes. You must remember the rules of movement on the glacier, work on communications, provide self-rescue skills and rescue the injured from an ice crack. After classes you will go for ascent Yuhin Peak, the ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment. Overnight in the set up camp on the top.
Day 7. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Climbing preparation. After breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). Rest. Preparation of the necessary equipment for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 8. Transfer to Camp 2 (5300 m).
From C1 to C2 they leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move to a bunch and put on crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are hung with a railing. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called «Skovorodka». Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is С2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 9. Transfer to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and ligaments. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. C3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From C2 to C3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.
Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Early in the morning, you start descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, you go down to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.
Day 11. Day of rest.
Rest at the Base Camp.
Day 12. Preparation for the ascent.
Rest at the Base Camp, climbing preparation.
Day 13. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time.
Day 14. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons, in ligaments, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 15. Transfer to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Immediately after the camp, a steep take-off on the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again abrupt take-off to the top of the peak Razdelnaya. Movement in crampons and ligaments. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less time and effort. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb
Day 16. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).
Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) icy take-off of 80 m in length, called a “knife”, and passing between the rocks, the route crosses the extensive gentle snow – the “plateau of skydivers” and goes out onto the gentle slope of rocky hills. There are no obvious directions, and in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost. There is a small nust of Lenin of the top of the peak.
An important safety rule: if by 2 o`clock in the afternoon you have not reached the summit, you must immediately start descending to assault camp!
Day 17. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Early in the morning you start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving in crampons and in bundles. Lunch at Camp 1. Rest.
Day 18. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Transfer to the Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Solemn rewarding of the climbers in the Base Camp.
Day 19. Reserve day.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 20. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.
After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.
After an early breakfast you will be transferred to the airport for the morning flight Osh – Bishkek. In Bishkek, you will be met by a representative and taken to the hotel.
Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Departure home.
The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.
* The OSH-OSH program starts from the 2nd day and ends on day 21 (the duration of the program is 20 days).
*Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.
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